Springtime in Venice

I can't imagine why it has taken me so long to post this blog, as our trip to Venice in May was the best birthday surprise in a very long time.  Truth be told, it would have been more of a surprise if Venice hadn't been the destination of my birthday treat, after my relentless campaign of not-so-subtle hints.  But Robin rose the challenge magnificently and booked a romantic room in a charming palazzo close to St Mark's Square as a base for our 4 day trip.

We followed the well-trodden tourist path to St Mark's Church and the Doges' Palace - which were remarkable in their richness, you could just imagine the wealth and power of Venice in its heyday intimidating visting merchants and diplomats alike - but apart from that we aimed to keep off the main thoroughfares and had a blissful time wandering the back streets and venturing into small churches to view remarkable paintings and frescoes.

Criss-crossing canal bridges we viewed the famous gondalas and their occupants with wry amusement - most looking as if they now regretted the 100 Euros they'd stumped up for the privilege of a half hour gondala jam in a narrow canal.  Instead we hopped on a vaporetto  for our own sightseeing tour of the Grand Canal.  The weather was glorious throughout our stay and the blue skies proved the perfect backdrop to city skyline.

We found some wonderful local restaurants and discovered spritz - a delicious apertif - at the market near the Rialto bridge.  But our best night was spent at an intimate opera - just 50 guests allowed - hosted in a crumbling palazzo on the Grand Canal, where the audience moved from room to room with each act, and almost became part of the action in the confined performance space.  

During the day St Mark's Square is an ugly scrum of tourists, but returning at night it takes on another quality - serenaded by competing Palm Court Orchestras on either side, we were never sure if we would make it across without getting our feet wet as the waters of the lagoon rose up between the stone flags forming ever increasing puddles.

On our final day we realised that the stages being erected by the waterfront and in St Mark's Square were to welcome the Pope the following day.  As everything seemed to be closing down in preparation for the Papal Visit, we crossed the lagoon to Murano to visit the glass museum and enjoy a final delicious lunch.