Butterflies, birds and Bijan's

17th June

Back in KL, we head for one of its biggest parks – yes, dear reader, you can still find oases of green amongst the high rises and expressways. It would take more than a day to do justice to this extensive park, so we limit ourselves to a stroll round the butterfly park – as it is the only place we can find to park the car – the bird park, and the ornamental lake. It must be butterfly season, as there are many hundreds of them flying around, dipping their proboscis into the colourful flowers, resting with wings spread like kites to take in the sun, and sipping water from one particular puddle which obviously has superior qualities to all the others. My favourites are the large black swallowtails with an iridescent blue band across their wings.

The bird park is just as packed – but with children as well as a huge variety of birds, from eagles to songbirds, peacocks to flamingos, and even two of the cassowaries we first encountered in Australia last year. My favourite is the hooting, hopping Great Hornbill. What appears to be a banana on its head turns out to be its voice box – producing the loudest hoot in the park as it hops kangaroo-style round its cage. And a special mention goes to the crested pigeon – it does sport a lovely crest, but its size is the real cause for celebration. Imagine Trafalgar Square full of pigeons the size of turkeys.

While local holidaymakers and daytrippers are out in force in the bird park, the lake and surrounding gardens are populated by local workmen armed with leaf blowers, strimmers and mechanical diggers to plant yet more trees. Their desire to keep the area neat and tidy is admirable, but it’s not the peaceful walk we had in mind. No matter. A final treat is in store as we follow the signs to the mouse deer park. Surely the smallest deer in the world, the mouse deer stands 20cm high to its shoulder and is about 40cm long – the size of a large cat – and stands on legs so spindly, its back knees are knocked. So cute!

The evening starts with a visit to Pavilion - the Westfield of KL.  But our minds are on food rather than shopping. KL restaurants offer food from every country in the world – except their own. Finding a Malaysian restaurant brings needles and haystacks to mind – perhaps they have that at home everyday so want something different when they eat out. Malaysian food is distinctly homestyle – essentially large portions of comfort food. But the internet is a wondrous thing, and we discover Bijan’s near Bukit Bintang. We can’t claim to be the first, as the place is packed, and the friendly staff magic tables from nowhere to fill every available corner. Having sampled the food, I can understand why it’s so full.